Tuesday 6 October 2015

An 1862 high-brimmed bonnet in black velvet with red plaid ribbons - £145

***Link to sale page here:https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/LaBelleModiste
***

 This bonnet is in the high-brimmed style that became very fashionable in 1862. These bonnets had a very high oval peaked brim in the shape of a spoon which earned them the name "spoon bonnets". The inside of the brim above the forehead was often profusely decorated with artificial flowers and lace. This bonnet is inspired by bonnets seen in The Ladies Treasury (1862) but can be worn to depict the years 1862-1865 as these high-brimmed bonnets continued to be popular until the middle of the century when they suddenly disappeared from fashion.

The Ladies Treasury - 1862
The Ladies Treasury - 1862



 The bonnet frame is made from buckram (cotton cloth stiffened with glue and often used for millinery) with a net and wire brim. This method of construction is period correct and also has the advantage that should your bonnet ever get slightly squashed the brim can be gently manipulated back into shape.


 The fabric is a rich black cotton velvet with a short pile and beautiful feel. Although velvet would have mostly been silk at this period, this cotton velvet achieves a pleasing and more economical effect without resorting to synthetic materials. Unfortunately velvet does not photograph well but this is an excellent quality fabric and looks very sumptuous in real life.





The inside of the brim is decorated with artificial leaves and red and white carnation flowers. These appear very prominent on the mannequin head which is small and solid, but when worn they nestle very nicely between the hair and the bonnet. There is also a deep lace ruffle around the inside of the brim made from high quality English cotton leavers lace. This lace is made "authenticlace" on ebay, a British company that makes Cluny style leavers lace on original machines of the kind that would have been being used to produce machine lace in the 1860s.




 The exterior decoration features two medium black ostrich feathers which were a favourite millinery decoration throughout the nineteenth century. These are tucked under the stunning ribbon ties which encircle the crown.


 The bonnet ties are a beautiful 4 1/4 inch wide plaid ribbon in shades of red and purple with gold highlights. Queen Victoria is well known for having started a tartan craze after buying Balmoral in 1848 and ribbon pattern books from the 1860s are full of tartan and plaid designs, many of them in bright and striking colour combinations thanks to the advances in dying silk during this period. The ribbons in 1862 would most likely have been silk. Unfortunately I do not know the fibre composition of this particular ribbon as it is a vintage ribbon. However, their overall effect is not dissimilar to some original silk ribbons that I have seen and they certainly capture the style of this period.

Please note that the ribbons are slightly creased from being tied but will be carefully pressed before being sent - the fabric presses very well

 The inside of the bonnet is lined with a cotton headlining. This is stitched to the front edge of the headpiece near the brim join and pleated into the back of the bonnet. The back edge is not stitched down - this is the way that original bonnets were lined. (Note the back edge is cut on the selvage so will not fray).





 The bavolet (or curtain) is made from the same cotton as the bonnet and lined with hand-stitched faux silk.

This bonnet was stitched entirely by hand using the techniques that were employed in the Victorian era.




This is an eye-catching and elegant bonnet which is sure to add a sense of luxury and style to any outfit. It is perfect for 1860s interpretations, especially at Christmas time, and will complement your crinoline era outfits by creating the complete silhouette of this period. Why not treat yourself or someone special to a wonderful piece of millinery for the festive season - sure to be a hit at Christmas events and Dickens Festivals this winter...

A band of velvet known as a headstay will be added to the inside of the bonnet that is designed to cling to the hair and help keep the bonnet in place. For windy days or extra security you could also secure the bonnet with bobby pins across the headstay, attach a comb to the headstay or use a hatpin. The choice is yours...

The bonnet is designed to fit an average head size of 22-23 inches. However, as the bonnet sits on the crown of the head this is more flexible than a hat style that encircles the forehead. The polystyrene head in the photographs is quite small and has no hair which is why the bonnet looks a little loose in the photographs.

This bonnet will be priced at £145.00 GBP + postage & packing

It will be available to purchase from Ebay on Saturday 31st October at 10am.

I will post a link to the sale page a week in advance (Saturday 24th October)

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